Off-Season Maintenance

#1

Afternoon all,

I thought I would open up this topic in an effort to get some of the seasoned racers to discuss maintenance intervals.
On the following items I really have no clue on what their length of life is under racing conditions and thought maybe some others would. Obviously I do not want to find that one or more of these items has gone bad on me especially if I am going to run in the enduro in Feb.

So please add to the following list with more items for discussion and if you have a recommended non-OEM product to use please mention:

  1. Timing Belt

  2. Water Pump

  3. Control Arms

  4. Lollipop bushings

  5. Rear trailing Arm Bushings

  6. Shocks and Struts (revalving back to Bilstein Specs)

  7. Wheel Bearings

  8. Radiator

  9. Hoses and filters

  10. Clutch

Thanks.
Jon

#2

Jon, I would add item #11 - Belts - My last race of the season ended prematurely when my P/S or water pump belt failed and took the other with it. No idea how old they were but several years at least.

Wheel bearings seem to give plenty of warning before they go, I’ve never heard of a recommended interval for them.

I’ve always heard (internet lore anyway) that front C/A’s should be replaced after 2-3 seasons, which is what I’m going to do this winter. Same for wheel studs.

#3

use OEM stuff for the Timing belt, tensioner and water pump.
Control arm Ball joint studs have failed in the E36 cars and the design is the same on the E30 cars. Every other year sounds about right. They are only about 80 bux and that is cheaper than breaking one and hitting something. Having a spare radiator isn’t really a bad idea since that stupid design has been known to leak.

#4

Here’s the list I’ve got going in Excel (so I can figure out the budget):

[ul][li]Maintenance[/li]
[ol][li]Transmission/Differential Fluid Replacement(1 yr)[/li]
[li]Air Filter[/li]
[li]New Studs/Nuts (1 yr[/li]
[li]SS Lines (2 yrs)[/li]
[li]Front Wheel Bearings (1 yr)[/li]
[li]Hoses (1 yr)[/li]
[li]Water Pump/PS Belts (1 yr)[/li]
[li]Spark Plugs (2 yrs)[/li]
[li]Lower Control Arms (2 yrs)[/li]
[li]Caliper Rebuild (1 yr) & Paint[/li]
[li]Front Rotors (3 weekends)[/li]
[li]Oil & Filter (2 weekends)[/li][/ol]

[li]Upgrades[/li]
[ol][li]Offset/Stiffer LCABs[/li]
[li]Strut Bearing Modification/Replacement[/li]
[li]New Exhaust / Remove Cat[/li][/ol]

[li]Expired Safety Certs[/li]
[ol][li]6-point Harness (SFI G-Force Pro -or- FIA Sparco)[/li]
[li]Gloves[/li]
[li]AFF Fire System (refurb due in May 2007)[/li][/ol]
[/ul]
I too, am unsure of the MTBF of M20 Timing Belts in race cars – mine was replaced in April 2005, ~5,000 miles ago. I’m hoping to get another 5 months out of the radiator – early cars don’t have the option of going to the more reliable aluminum radiators.

I’m also curious about new rotors – I was using ATE Power Discs, but it seems that they’re no longer made (and they were only lasting about 3 weekends – less than my HT-10 pads). Power Slots are $50 more per set, but the OEMs lack the "wear indicators" (gas slots).

Ed Davidson said he had a "frugal" source of the lower control arms (he quoted ~$60 each), but he couldn’t remember their name. Any suggestions that are cheaper than the ~$90 I’ve seen from most sources?

#5

sharkd wrote:

Dan,

That’s a pretty impressive (expensive) maintenance schedule you have planned. I would feel pretty confident in your car on any given weekend.

As for brake rotors, I’ve never really bought into the true benefit of slotted rotors. IMO they are definitely not worth the extra expense especially if you only get 3 weekends out of them. I started with new front Brembo (OEM $28 each) rotors in March and have 9 weekends on them now (along with my HT10 pads). They are still in good (visual) shape with no shimmy or cracks. I’ll probably change them out before my next event since I’m doing my front pads anyway.

Your list reminded me of several more things that I have to do…sigh!

#6

we put the cryo treated rotors on before VIR and even after nationals the rotors don’t have any pad transfer or cracks in them. Stock rotors on the front of our car only seemed to last 2 maybe three weekends.

P.S. nationals counts as 2 weekends at least haha.

#7

Ken,

Thanks for that info – that puts about $100 back into my pocket. (Every little bit counts right now.

Anyone know anything about TRW-brand items? FCP Groton has TRW control arms for $60, "Genuine OEM" for $75…

Oh, and any thoughts on plugs? I know that Bosch W8LCR’s were the OEM part – should I stick with that, or go with something else?

#8

IMHO, any time you can go with Original BMW Parts, you should.

#9

sharkd wrote:

[quote]Ken,

Thanks for that info – that puts about $100 back into my pocket. (Every little bit counts right now.

Anyone know anything about TRW-brand items? FCP Groton has TRW control arms for $60, "Genuine OEM" for $75…

Oh, and any thoughts on plugs? I know that Bosch W8LCR’s were the OEM part – should I stick with that, or go with something else?[/quote]I will always spend the extra few $$ for OEM stuff. The W8LCR is the best plug to run in these cars. OEM control arms are Febi I think. It is not really the casting of the arm that matters, it is the ball joints.

#10

This is a great thread! I’m new to the forum and don’t even have a car yet, but I really appreciate this discussion. Thanks!

Joe Freeland
Pauls Valley OK