Wheel Studs - two questions

#1

Don’t ask me why, but I’m having a bad time stripping out studs. I start the nut on by hand, give it a few turns, then lightly seat them with an electric impact, then torque to 70 pounds. It all feels good going on. Then, when you go to pull them off, they bind, and you have to hammer them off with a big electric impact, which pulls the stud out. Then, when you get midevil with the nut in a vice later at home, the threads wind up gone. I don’t know why this is happening. It is true that the studs are pretty dry, I didn’t oil them, ever.

So, question 1 is why is this happening. Question 2 is where is a good source for me to just get all new studs and nuts and keep what I have for spares. Thanks.

-Scott

#2

Vorschlag, VAC, AKG, and Bimmerworld will all sell you studs. If you’re using spacers get 90mm studs.

I used to have problems with studs coming out until I started using high temp antiseize on them. Dab a little on once per event or so as you’re changing wheels.

Use high strength locktite when you’re installing the studs in the hubs.

I’d do the lug nuts to 80ftlbs.

#3

The bullet nose studs are preferred!!

Are you sure your current lug nuts and studs are the same thread pitch, I can’t imagine any reason they would constantly strip upon removal unless they were mismatched.

#4

GLS Top Stud. Bimmerworld carries them, I think, or I can send you straight to the company owner. He’s a BMWCCA racer.

#5

Different thread pitch, I have had that happen a lot recently, the difference is .25 so not much…had a brand new trailer with the problem, had to drill one nut off, Some Sparco brand studs had the right pitch to go in the hub but the nut pitch was .25 different…

Al

#6

Z3SpdDmn wrote:

+10 GLS Top Studs rock. Get em from bimmerworld.

#7

after my left front flew off at CMP last November I just converted to bimmerworld bullet nose studs used red lock tight and hope I can keep the wheels on in February. We found that old dry lock tight caked inside needed to be cleaned out carefully with a tap set to allow studs to seat better for what its worth.

#8

Laszlo wrote:

I had the same problem, but a chase might be safer then a tap. I created a lot of problems trying hard to get the studs in against threads that were a little gummed up. Then I ended up with studs that weren’t far enough in and were damned hard to get back out.

Ultimately I figured out that I had to keep chasing the hole over and over again until the stud threaded all the way in easily.

#9

Antisieze on the threads will prevent the problem. What happens is that the dry threads gall and seize. Never put any lube on the 45 degree face as that is what keeps the nut tight. Chuck

#10

I concur with some anti-seize to fix the problem. I have had no issues with my Vorshlag studs and nuts that came with them. They come with red loctite that I used to install them.

#11

Wheels don’t fall off and studs don’t strip or break or bind or come out when you KISS it with good ole lug bolts.

Just sayin’

RP

#12

Patton wrote:

[quote]Wheels don’t fall off and studs don’t strip or break or bind or come out when you KISS it with good ole lug bolts.

Just sayin’

RP[/quote]

Robert, you are soooo wrong on this one!! My dumb a$$ actually stripped two lug bolts on my street E30 a few weeks ago. It was pretty easy to fix though…